Serifos, Greece: The Island, Beaches, Chora & Villages
Serifos is a green island in the western Cyclades, 70 square kilometers in size with about 1,100 residents, quieter than its neighbour Sifnos and known for very good beaches. Ferries dock at the port of Livadi on the south-east coast, the hilltop capital of Chora climbs above it, and the coast holds over 70 beaches led by fine-sand Psili Amos, despite a name that means "barren". Hire a car to reach the parts of Serifos the buses miss, covered in our Serifos car hire guide.
- Group
- Cyclades
- Area
- 70 km²
- Population
- ~1,100
- Port
- Livadi
The island of Serifos
Serifos lies in the western Cyclades, a little north-west of Paros and Naxos, and is greener than most Cycladic islands. The island measures 70 square kilometers and holds about 1,100 residents, which keeps it quieter than its neighbour Sifnos. Ferries dock at Livadi, a Cycladic village in a bay on the south-east coast with a sandy beach, a harbour, most of the hotels and the island's main facilities. The crossing from Piraeus takes about 4.5 hours by normal ferry and 2.5 hours by high-speed boat. From Livadi the road climbs to Chora, the hilltop capital, crowned by the ruins of a Venetian fortress and the church of Agios Constantinos. Serifos is busiest at weekends and in high summer, when Athenians visit, and quiet the rest of the time.
Beaches of Serifos
Serifos has over 70 beaches, and the east coast is lined with them. By the port, Livadi has a sandy town beach with trees for shade, and a short walk leads to larger, better Livadakia, sheltered from the Meltemi wind and shallow enough for children. Psili Amos - "fine sand" - is considered one of the finest beaches on the island and one of the best in Greece, an hour's walk from Livadi with a couple of tavernas. Karavi, south of Livadakia, is the island's official naturist beach. The quieter south-west coves of Vagia, Ganema, Koutalas and Megalo Livadi need a car and often a short walk. The full run is set out in the Serifos beaches guide.
Sights of Serifos
The most important sight on Serifos is the Monastery of the Taxiarches, a white, fortress-like monastery 8 kilometers north of Chora, built in the early 17th century, that was the economic and religious centre of the island under Turkish rule. Above Megalo Livadi in the south-west stand the Throne of the Cyclops, a nine-by-seven-metre structure of huge stones, and the ruins of a 19th-century mining village where iron and even gold were won, with a miners' monument and a large iron loading bridge into the sea. Near the coastal village of Koutalas are a Hellenistic fortress and a cave once used for worship. These are gathered in the Serifos sights guide.
Villages of Serifos
Serifos keeps its life in two main villages: the port of Livadi on the south-east coast, which holds most of the hotels and facilities, and the hilltop capital of Chora above it. Smaller coastal settlements at Megalo Livadi, Koutalas and Kentarhos lie scattered around the island.
Livadi
Livadi is the port of Serifos, a pretty Cycladic village in a bay on the south-east coast where all the ferries dock. It has a sandy beach, a harbour, most of the island's hotels, and the main facilities including a bank, a supermarket, tavernas and a few nightspots. It is the natural base for a stay, within walking distance of the sand and a short drive from Chora. The neighbouring beach of Livadakia lies a short walk to the south-west. Where to stay here is set out in the Serifos hotels & villas guide.
Chora
Chora is the hilltop capital of Serifos, reached by road from Livadi below. It is an authentic Greek village of white houses, narrow streets, squares, churches and windmills, crowned by the ruins of a Venetian fortress destroyed by pirates in 1210 and the church of Agios Constantinos with wide views. Chora has an archaeological museum, housed with the 1907 neo-classical town hall on Saint Athanasios Square, and a folklore museum lower down towards Livadi. Most tourist rooms sit down by the port, so the Chora keeps much of its original character.
Walking & activities
Serifos is small but varied, and walking is the best way to see it, with six relatively well-marked hiking trails, though a good map or a guide is recommended. The Serifos-Me3 centre runs year-round workshops and activities, including guided walks of 1.5 to 5 hours in varying difficulty except in July and August, family walks, historical tours and seasonal herb-gathering, along with Greek lessons, Greek cooking and, from April to October, yoga, Reiki, Greek dance, creative writing, wine and music. You can rent a car or motorbike in Livadi to reach the more remote beaches over the island's rough back roads.
Where to stay
Most accommodation on Serifos is in Livadi and neighbouring Livadakia, close to the port, the beaches and the island's facilities. Hotels, studios and apartments here put you within walking distance of the sand and a short drive from Chora. Options run from the beachfront Maistrali and Asteri to the self-catering Aliktypo Studios and Studios Eliza, the 3-star Rizes Hotel at Agios Sostis and the Cycladic-style Naias Hotel. Compare them in the Serifos hotels & villas guide.
Where to eat
Serifos serves most of its food in Livadi, the port, where tavernas, restaurants, bars and seaside cafes line the beach and the harbour. A couple of tavernas sit behind Psili Amos, and beach tavernas serve the south-west at Megalo Livadi, Vagia and Koutalas, though these cannot always be relied on out of season. The dining spots are set out by area in the Serifos restaurants guide.
