Evia (Euboea), Greece: The Green, Undiscovered Island

The island of Evia and its towns

Evia is the second-largest Greek island after Crete, 3,580 square kilometers of green, mountainous country off the north-east of Attica, joined to the mainland at Chalkida by a 30-metre suspension bridge over the Euripus channel. The capital, Chalkida, straddles the strait and is the island's transport hub, with buses fanning out across Evia. Around it lie the ancient rival city of Eretria (now also called Nea Psara), the coastal village of Amarynthos and the resort of Nea Styra. The north holds the great spa town of Loutra Edipsou and the pretty coast at Limni and Pefki, while the south is anchored by Karystos, in a wide bay with a Venetian-style port, the Bourtzi fortress and the Castello Rosso above it. On the east coast, Kymi is the port for ferries to Skyros.

Sights of Evia

The strangest sight is the Euripus channel at Chalkida, where the current reverses direction about eight times a day - a phenomenon that legend says drove Aristotle to despair. Chalkida also has the Archaeological Museum and the 15th-century Karababas fortress. At Eretria stand a theatre, an agora and the best-preserved ancient gate of its period in Greece, with an archaeological museum alongside. The old spa of Loutra Edipsou keeps Roman remains and the Temple of Apollo Dafniforos, and near Limni the 7th-century Byzantine nunnery of Galataki, the island's oldest monastery, is famous for its frescoes.

History of Evia

Evia has been inhabited since prehistoric times, and its first great town was Chalkida, which grew rich on copper mines and trade - the island's name means "rich in cattle". In the 5th century BC Evia belonged to the Athenian League and stood against Persia, which destroyed Eretria, and it became a major cultural centre. The Romans took the island in the 3rd and 2nd centuries BC; under Byzantium many churches and monasteries were built, though the island suffered repeated pirate raids. Evia passed to the Venetians in the 13th century and later to the Ottomans, until the war of independence began in 1821.

The beaches of Evia

Evia has beaches to suit every mood. Alikes near Chalkida and Lefkandi between Chalkida and Eretria are long sandy beaches with tavernas and water sports, while the beach of Eretria, shaded by palm trees, stays popular with Greeks. In the north, Edipsos, Istiea, Rovies (a long pebble beach) and the sandy shores around Pefki sit among olive and pine woods. On the wilder east coast, Kalamos gathers small sandy bays south of Kymi, and Limnionas and Xiliadou, behind the Dirfys mountains, are quiet and beautiful; Zarakon lies in a calm bay near Styra.

Where to stay on Evia

Penelope Villas, Karystos

Penelope Villas stand 9 kilometers from the centre of Karystos, traditionally built self-catering houses with views over the Aegean and the mountains, in a place of total peace with virtually no traffic. Each air-conditioned house has two bedrooms, a fireplace and built-in beds, a living room with satellite TV and an open-plan kitchen opening onto a patio with barbecue. The Venetian Castello Rosso is a short drive away, and free parking is available - one of the best-rated locations in Karystos.

Agnadi Hotel, Rovies

The charming Agnadi Hotel sits right by the sea among gardens and olive groves near the coastal village of Rovies, in the north-west of Evia. Its rooms are warm and comfortable, some with open fireplaces, and each has a private balcony with a magnificent view of the sea and sunset. The beach in front is perfect for swimming and water sports, and the village of Rovies, with its Venetian castle and olive groves, is close by.

Avra Studios, Kymi

Avra Studios stand in an elevated position just 50 metres from the beach of Kymi, with air-conditioned apartments that have a fireplace, free WiFi and a patio overlooking the Aegean. Each has a kitchenette with a fridge, a flat-screen TV and a hairdryer, and the 24-hour front desk can point you to sights such as Mourteri Beach, 20 kilometers away.

Valledi Village Hotel, Kymi

The Valledi Village Hotel at Kymi Beach offers comfortable rooms, apartments and suites, all with a sea-view balcony, air conditioning, TV, kitchenette, fridge and phone. The hotel has a swimming pool, a breakfast hall, a bar and a souvenir shop, with parking on site. Kymi, built amphitheatrically on an evergreen hill and nicknamed the "balcony of the Aegean", lies 91 kilometers north-east of Chalkida and connects Evia by ferry to Skyros.